The First Look…
- Traverse the Isle of Skye, Scotland
- Approx 80 miles (128 km)
- 5-8 days to complete
- Moderate difficulty
- best done May-September
What?
The Skye Trail is a nearly eighty-mile-long collection of footpaths, dirt tracks, and pavement, when pieced all together, traverses Skye north to south. Largely unmarked and battered in all seasons by fickle weather, the Skye Trail is a challenging trail for “the experienced hillwalker”. However, with the right gear and a penchant for wet weather, the trail is reasonably accessibly to a variety of levels.
Why?
The Isle of Skye is steeped in history, folklore, and Highland culture. It is often at the top of anyone’s list of Scottish highlights, and what better way to immerse yourself than with a traverse of the entire island? The Skye Trail allows for just that. Along the way you’ll pass abandoned villages from the Highland Clearances, walk under the shadow of the Cuillin, clamber along the Trotternish Ridge, and explore Rubha Hunish, the most northern part of Skye.
When?
Though feasible during any season for experienced backpackers (or those with a keen desire to suffer), the Skye Trail is best completed between May and September. The height of summer will bring longer days and warmer temperatures, but be aware of the midges. They can be nearly unbearable, particularly in the Cuillin. If aiming for spring or fall, expect shorter days, and cooler temperatures, and less midges.
Whatever the month you choose, be prepared for all conditions. Skye has notoriously fickle weather. Unless very lucky, you will most likely get wet.
Allot for at least seven days to truly enjoy the trail. The trip can of course be shortened by longer mileage days. If you’re really looking for a snatch-and-dash version, there’s an ultra marathon along the trail every summer.
How?
Where to Start: The trail runs either south to north, or north to start. I walked south to north, starting in the village of Broadford and ending at Duntulm Castle. While either direction is fine, I enjoyed the idea of ending my walk along the Trotternish Ridge and at the ruins of a castle. Broadford is a lovely little town however, which could make a great finish to the walk as well.
Broadford is easily accessed by the CityLink buses, which service the Isle of Skye from Inverness and Fort William. The northern terminus at Duntulm is serviced approximately four times a day by Stagecoach buses. Hop a ride on one to or from Portree, the main town in Skye. From here you can easily catch a bus back to mainland Scotland.
What to Bring: Waterproof pants and a rain jacket are top priority given the fickle weather on Skye. Bring plenty of warm layers as well. You’ll be in a remote area of Scotland, where help and comfort could be far away if something should happen. Prepare for the worst! For footwear, I opted to wear trail runners instead of hiking boots, though that is a very personal preference. If you haven’t backpacked in trail runners before, stick with hiking boots. You’ll appreciate the waterproofing!
As far as tents, a sturdy, three-season tent will do fine. I favor a full tent with a bathtub floor over a shelter, to keep out the midges and near constant wet. My favorites for Scotland, Alaska, and anywhere else where the weather is generally bad are TarpTents.
For food, I carried 2-3 days worth at a time. Resupplies were possible in many of the smaller towns along the way, but don’t plan on a full grocery shop except in Portree. I did manage to find scones in Elgol, served by the sweetest elderly couple I’d ever met, and whisky and hot food at the Sligachan pub. Flodigarry Hostel also may have some food. Water is (overly) abundant, and I’ve never had to treat my water in Scotland. Just make sure there isn’t a sheep carcass upstream.
Maps can be found through Ordinance Survey, and Harvey Maps makes a beautiful weatherproof one as well. GPS tracks and a whole heap of more information can be found at Walk Highlands. Cicerone Guides makes a great guidebook.
Where to Sleep: The Skye Trail has a pretty even split of great wild camping, bothies, campgrounds, and hostels.
For wild camping, Scotland is one of the few countries with an Outdoor Access Law, which essentially allows anybody to recreate on any land as long as they respect both the land and the landowners. Basically, you’re free to pitch your tent anywhere, within reason. Look for some spectacular wild camping spots near the abandoned village of Boreraig, and in the Cuillin. Durable surfaces are preferred, and take care to stay at least 200 feet back from water sources. Practice Leave No Trace, and make sure to leave your camp area better than you found it. Familiarize yourself with the Outdoor Access Law before you go.
If wild camping isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other option. You’ll find Camasunary bothy on the south end of the Cuillin. It offers a dry roof over your head, some bunks, and a place to sit. You’ll often be sharing bothies with other hikers, so be respectful! To the north of the mountains there is Sligachan, which offers a charming hotel and established campground (for a small fee). Portree has a wealth of hostels and hotels, and you’ll find Flodigarry Hostel north of Trotternish Ridge. When I was there in 2017, you could pitch your tent outside the hostel for a fee, and make use of the kitchen and living space inside.
Want More?
There are so many sidetrips from the Skye Trail that it frankly warrants its very own report. The trail brings you right through the Cuillin, which allows for fantastic ridgewalking and exploration. Check out Loch Coruisk, walk to Glen Brittle, tiptoe around the Bad Step, summit Bla Bheinn.. the possibilities are endless. Check out the Walk Highlands section.
For in town activities, Portree and Broadford make for a delightful afternoon of shopping and eating. Spend a few days before of after trip exploring the rest of the Isle.
Chelsey Cook 